The Alhambra with its thick imposing walls and square towers, elaborate palaces reflecting two very different cultures, formal gardens and fountains, dominates the old city and attracts droves of curious visitors from around the world. However, it is the labyrinth of steep walkways and narrow streets, paths and alleyways, all paved with time-worn polished stones that keep me exploring day after day. What lies around the next corner? a fountain flowing with pure drinking water, a hidden garden, an amazing vista, another convent or monastery or maybe an ancient moorish hammam. Just wish the locals would learn to clean up after their dogs!
My exploration is only limited by my finite amount of energy ( I must confess that I took a 2 hour siesta between sentences 3 and 4 of this entry!!!
This morning I walked along the small steam at the base of the Alhambra, stopped to look at the mega colony of feral cats that inhabit the area under an ancient arched stone bridge, and then ventured through a partially open doorway of the monastario de san bernardo. I found myself interrupting an intimate morning mass, one priest and seven nuns, all elderly, one of whom signaled for me to join them in the chapel. With all eyes upon me, how could I refuse. Jean-Paul Sartre wrote ¨No Exit¨ and Henri IV of France was quoted as saying ¨Paris is worth a mass.¨ I couldn´t turn around and leave and Granada is definitely worth a mass, so I joined them for the next hour. Forgot my hat when I left and retrieved it later at the window where they sell sweets made at the monastery, along with a half kilo of cookies that cost me 6 euros! all handed to me through a turnstyle that prevents one from seeing the person to whom you are talking.
Off today to have a couchsurfing experience!
Tall guard in Istanbul
Deciding which camera to pack for my trip. Bulk, quality, weight vs convenience.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Magic in Granada
Mediterranian light, hot sun, narrow streets providing shade, white stucco walls, tile rooftops, steep cobblestone streets, paths and stairs paved with small river stones arranges in patterns- wow! who had the time and patience to do all of that work? pedestrians, scooters and motorcycles, fascinating architecture, all of those impressions and sensations in a simple walk through the city.
The artist I met told me of an interesting place to hear traditional music and see authentic flamenco- an open air theatre overlooking the mountains and the Alhambra. Found Ricardo in the Plaza Nueva, proposed the concert, and proceeded to walk to the Sacramonte neighborhood known for its cave dwellings and gypsy inhabitants. Three musicians, guitarist, violinist and singer, prepared the mood for the entrance of a stately flamenco dancer. Four dances, each in a different style dress, expressive hand and finger movements, emotional facial expressions, turns, kicks, staccato taping of the feet, castanets, swirling scarves, all under a starry sky, rising full moon and illuninated moorish walls. Tradition! Tradition! Tradition!
26 August- history and culture at its best. The day of my much anticipated visit to the Alhambra began when I climbed the steep street to the entrance. No need for a trip to the gym today! Stair step machine, treadmill, weight lifting (my backpack with cameras) and sauna (the hot weather) all combined in one seven hour visit. The Moorish architecture brought back memories of palaces visited in Morroco and in Istanbul. The workmanship is exquisite- horseshoe shaped doorways, colorful tiles, traditional plastered ceilings that resemble honeycomb covered by spider webs (the best description I can provide!) courtyards gardens, fountains and verandas. Fortunately, the fountains still flow with cool, pure water, a much appreciated comodity on a hot summer day. The famous lion court fountain is being restored, so only the newly cleaned lion sculptures are on display. When the project is completed, it will be a stunning fountain, once again the signature image traditionally associated with the Alhambra. From the fortified watch towers, the guards certainly had a panoramic view of the city and the area and were well protected from any attack. Small windows allow a few rays of light to illuminate the stairways inside walls that are nearly two meters thick. Following the retreat of the Moors, Charles V added his palace to the complex. This unusual building consists of a square several stories high encompassing a circular opening in the center lined with columns made not of marble, but of a cement like composite whose stones that have been sanded smooth. (Just use your imagination!)
Another rewarding but exhausting day! Off to photograph graffiti and wall art tomorrow! Culture of the 21st century!
The artist I met told me of an interesting place to hear traditional music and see authentic flamenco- an open air theatre overlooking the mountains and the Alhambra. Found Ricardo in the Plaza Nueva, proposed the concert, and proceeded to walk to the Sacramonte neighborhood known for its cave dwellings and gypsy inhabitants. Three musicians, guitarist, violinist and singer, prepared the mood for the entrance of a stately flamenco dancer. Four dances, each in a different style dress, expressive hand and finger movements, emotional facial expressions, turns, kicks, staccato taping of the feet, castanets, swirling scarves, all under a starry sky, rising full moon and illuninated moorish walls. Tradition! Tradition! Tradition!
26 August- history and culture at its best. The day of my much anticipated visit to the Alhambra began when I climbed the steep street to the entrance. No need for a trip to the gym today! Stair step machine, treadmill, weight lifting (my backpack with cameras) and sauna (the hot weather) all combined in one seven hour visit. The Moorish architecture brought back memories of palaces visited in Morroco and in Istanbul. The workmanship is exquisite- horseshoe shaped doorways, colorful tiles, traditional plastered ceilings that resemble honeycomb covered by spider webs (the best description I can provide!) courtyards gardens, fountains and verandas. Fortunately, the fountains still flow with cool, pure water, a much appreciated comodity on a hot summer day. The famous lion court fountain is being restored, so only the newly cleaned lion sculptures are on display. When the project is completed, it will be a stunning fountain, once again the signature image traditionally associated with the Alhambra. From the fortified watch towers, the guards certainly had a panoramic view of the city and the area and were well protected from any attack. Small windows allow a few rays of light to illuminate the stairways inside walls that are nearly two meters thick. Following the retreat of the Moors, Charles V added his palace to the complex. This unusual building consists of a square several stories high encompassing a circular opening in the center lined with columns made not of marble, but of a cement like composite whose stones that have been sanded smooth. (Just use your imagination!)
Another rewarding but exhausting day! Off to photograph graffiti and wall art tomorrow! Culture of the 21st century!
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Number 1 - PDX to Spain
Sorry- photos will follow when I get used to the system!
The Kindness of Strangers... or Thank You Hannibal!
Even though the lights of Mexico City interrupted only by dark triangles created by mountain peaks or ancient temples, spread to the horizon, I was dreading the 12 hour layover preceding my flight to Madrid. It had been one topic of discussion with Hannibal, the Dell coputer representative sitting next to me during the flight. We walked together through immigration and to the exit where I began following the flight crew toward their hotel, the El Camino. At the entrance to the airport Hilton, Hannibal suggested he might get a favorable rate since he often stayed there with his family. At the check in desk, he commented that he had accumulated a ridiculous number of hotel points and that he would call to get me a room for the night- end result, a free room and a good night of sleep before continuing to Madrid. Thanks again Hannibal!
Madrid airport- Bouba, my friend and former guide from Mali, and his Spanish wife, Maria, met me at the airport and drove me to their apartment about 30 minutes south of Madrid. It was exciting seeing Bouba in Spain after only having spent time with him in Mali. In addition to experiencing daily life in a small town, I have taken the bus to Madrid to visit the Modern Art Museum, walk around the center of the city and relax in sidewalk cafes. Saturday we drove to historic Toledo where we explored maze of narrow streets, visited the amazing cathedral and had a wonderful dinner seated under the head of a brave bull who lost his life and one ear to a skilled matador!
Monday, Bouba and I took the bus to El Escorial, a short distance from Cerceda, their village. Although the monastery was closed, we walked around the grounds, took photos and ate a nice dinner in a cafe overlooking the monastery. Afterward, we walked through an exhibit of paintings of a local artist and enjoyed our conversation with him. If only I spoke and understood Spanish!!!!
It´s Wednesday and I am in Granada! Arrived by train last night and have a hotel room since none of the people I contacted about couchsurfing were available. Graffiti everywhere around my hotel so I walked the streets taking photos. I continued up narrow cobblestone streets and stairs in a neighborhood called Albaicin to a viewpoint overlooking the city and discovered an area of street art. While taking photos I greeted a lady going to the market, and was still there when she returned. When I told her about my interest in street art, she invited me to her house to see a book of art featuring a well known street artist from Granada, Elninodelaspinturas, and told me where to find some examples of his work. Since I must have looked very warm, actually I was sweating under the hot sun, she asked me to have a beer, then it was lunch and conversation. I discovered that her husband is a famous sculptor and she does engravings and book illustrations. They live in a house that is "troglodyte" not sure of the adjective! as the back of the house is comprised of caves and only the front two rooms have windows and doors to the outside. Gespacho, chicken and bread followed by a puree of frozen fruit and the coffee. Another example of the kindness of strangers.
I will be off soon to find more street art! Fun!
The Kindness of Strangers... or Thank You Hannibal!
Even though the lights of Mexico City interrupted only by dark triangles created by mountain peaks or ancient temples, spread to the horizon, I was dreading the 12 hour layover preceding my flight to Madrid. It had been one topic of discussion with Hannibal, the Dell coputer representative sitting next to me during the flight. We walked together through immigration and to the exit where I began following the flight crew toward their hotel, the El Camino. At the entrance to the airport Hilton, Hannibal suggested he might get a favorable rate since he often stayed there with his family. At the check in desk, he commented that he had accumulated a ridiculous number of hotel points and that he would call to get me a room for the night- end result, a free room and a good night of sleep before continuing to Madrid. Thanks again Hannibal!
Madrid airport- Bouba, my friend and former guide from Mali, and his Spanish wife, Maria, met me at the airport and drove me to their apartment about 30 minutes south of Madrid. It was exciting seeing Bouba in Spain after only having spent time with him in Mali. In addition to experiencing daily life in a small town, I have taken the bus to Madrid to visit the Modern Art Museum, walk around the center of the city and relax in sidewalk cafes. Saturday we drove to historic Toledo where we explored maze of narrow streets, visited the amazing cathedral and had a wonderful dinner seated under the head of a brave bull who lost his life and one ear to a skilled matador!
Monday, Bouba and I took the bus to El Escorial, a short distance from Cerceda, their village. Although the monastery was closed, we walked around the grounds, took photos and ate a nice dinner in a cafe overlooking the monastery. Afterward, we walked through an exhibit of paintings of a local artist and enjoyed our conversation with him. If only I spoke and understood Spanish!!!!
It´s Wednesday and I am in Granada! Arrived by train last night and have a hotel room since none of the people I contacted about couchsurfing were available. Graffiti everywhere around my hotel so I walked the streets taking photos. I continued up narrow cobblestone streets and stairs in a neighborhood called Albaicin to a viewpoint overlooking the city and discovered an area of street art. While taking photos I greeted a lady going to the market, and was still there when she returned. When I told her about my interest in street art, she invited me to her house to see a book of art featuring a well known street artist from Granada, Elninodelaspinturas, and told me where to find some examples of his work. Since I must have looked very warm, actually I was sweating under the hot sun, she asked me to have a beer, then it was lunch and conversation. I discovered that her husband is a famous sculptor and she does engravings and book illustrations. They live in a house that is "troglodyte" not sure of the adjective! as the back of the house is comprised of caves and only the front two rooms have windows and doors to the outside. Gespacho, chicken and bread followed by a puree of frozen fruit and the coffee. Another example of the kindness of strangers.
I will be off soon to find more street art! Fun!
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Final days before departure
Out of my house, using free wi-fi at coffee shops and book stores! Living out of a small suitcase so I don't disturb the contents of my backpack. Driving a borrowed car. Setting up a phantom life in Oregon so businesses will not know I am gone. Making sure my mail will still be delivered to the appropriate addresses. Thought I might just drink water on the plane, but am revisiting that decision.
Next message will be from Spain.
Next message will be from Spain.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)