"Shoving off" and "watching the world go by" have literal meaning here! Left the Gateway Villa Hotel where I had been staying in Huay Xai for the two day slow boat trip to Pak Beng and Luang Prabang. Bid my friends goodby, shared a tuk tuk to the dock with a German couple, bought my ticket and played petanque with a fellow passenger while waiting for departure. My fear that this would be some kind of party boat did not materialize. The potential party crowd found their place on the bow; smoked, drank, sang and did not move! Everyone brought food and drinks aboard for the 8 hour trip to Pak Beng so they would not have to purchase the more expensive offerings on board. As someone who has always had his nose pressed against the windows of trains and planes in order not to miss any of the sights, it is hard to understand how some people can read, sleep, listen to ipods or chat for the entire trip without appreciating the amazing scenery. This long, narrow, flat bottomed boat is controlled by a pilot in the front. The wheel is connected to a small rudder in the rear by means of chains threaded through PVC pipe above the windows and the very rudimentary throttle has a small cable running to the diesel engine in the rear. A glance into the engine compartment gave me comfort as it had been blessed with flower offerings and a small Buddha. Relax, take photos, eat and enjoy!
Day two- After spending the night in Pak Beng, the village full of guest houses that is midway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, it is time to continue down stream. Taking advantage of the swift current, the boat slips into the middle of the Mekong, gliding between steep ridges covered with tropical vegetation, occasionally old forest, but more often low trees or cultivated patches that have replaced the original jungle. Jagged rock outcropping line the banks, extending into the river at sharp angles and creating brief areas of rapids. Since it is the dry season, the river is low and the boat scraped bottom on several occasions. Bamboo poles extend from the rock formations, supports for fishing nets of fishermen who live in nearby villages. Beautiful sandbanks with multiple water lines resembling stairs have accumulated between the rock formations providing variety to the landscape, playgrounds for children, warm resting spots for clusters of water buffalo and an easy place to grow peanuts at this time of year. They also serve as a reminder of the water level during the rainy season, perhaps 30 feet higher than today in the narrowest places. The surface of the river glistens; silver and gold ripples masking the murkey brown green of the water. Mountain ridges, four to six deep, continually appear before us and slowly fade into the distance behind the boat. Many people pan for gold in small inlets, others fish from rocks using weighted throw nets. Long, slender wooden boats moored at the river's edge indicate the presence of villages hidden in the trees. Seated near the front of the boat, all I hear is the low, steady drone of the engine and light splash of water along the bow. Slow boats heading north pass making the same sound, but an occasional "fast" boat, a small banana shaped boat carrying 8 passengers wearing crash helmets, creates a slight turbulance as it roars past. We stopped several times to allow villagers to jump onto the beach where they were greeted by family or friends. For two days, life proceeded at the pace of the Mekong current.
Relaxing in Laos, and loving it!
Day two- After spending the night in Pak Beng, the village full of guest houses that is midway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, it is time to continue down stream. Taking advantage of the swift current, the boat slips into the middle of the Mekong, gliding between steep ridges covered with tropical vegetation, occasionally old forest, but more often low trees or cultivated patches that have replaced the original jungle. Jagged rock outcropping line the banks, extending into the river at sharp angles and creating brief areas of rapids. Since it is the dry season, the river is low and the boat scraped bottom on several occasions. Bamboo poles extend from the rock formations, supports for fishing nets of fishermen who live in nearby villages. Beautiful sandbanks with multiple water lines resembling stairs have accumulated between the rock formations providing variety to the landscape, playgrounds for children, warm resting spots for clusters of water buffalo and an easy place to grow peanuts at this time of year. They also serve as a reminder of the water level during the rainy season, perhaps 30 feet higher than today in the narrowest places. The surface of the river glistens; silver and gold ripples masking the murkey brown green of the water. Mountain ridges, four to six deep, continually appear before us and slowly fade into the distance behind the boat. Many people pan for gold in small inlets, others fish from rocks using weighted throw nets. Long, slender wooden boats moored at the river's edge indicate the presence of villages hidden in the trees. Seated near the front of the boat, all I hear is the low, steady drone of the engine and light splash of water along the bow. Slow boats heading north pass making the same sound, but an occasional "fast" boat, a small banana shaped boat carrying 8 passengers wearing crash helmets, creates a slight turbulance as it roars past. We stopped several times to allow villagers to jump onto the beach where they were greeted by family or friends. For two days, life proceeded at the pace of the Mekong current.
Relaxing in Laos, and loving it!
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