Ah, Sevilla!

Yesterday I walked throughout the central part of the city, along the Guadalquivir River and took photos, only stopping to visit the Torre del Oro, a tower that has been guarding the city since the moors ruled this city.  My quest for graffiti and street art was successful, walls along the river, under bridges and in a skate park.  I have learned that those who look like they are living on the fringes of society are most likely to have the information I seek.  

No need to ask for help or directions today.  This morning I headed straight to the cathedral to beat the daily crowds of tourists.   Bells ringing in the Giralda, the moorish style tower that originally served as the mineret to a large mosque on this site, and at 30 plus meters was once the tallest building in the world, caught my attention.  I entered a small back entrance and joined a handful of worshippers and small group of elderly priests who were reciting chants.  I had not intentionally planned to attend mass, but suddenly remembered a similar early morning experience in the Granada cathedral.  Mass is still free, but tourists pay an entrance fee!  Sunlight illuminated stained glass windows that sent streams of colored light against flamboyant gothic arches.  This structure, the largest of all gothic cathedrals, and third largest Christian church- after St. Peters in Rome and St. Pauls in London, is breathtaking by both its size and decor.   A massive guilded alterpiece dominates the space behind the high alter while an elaborately carved wooden choir area provides seating for clergy, two gigantic pipe organs with intricate carvings forming its sides.   The remains of Christopher Columbus occupy a prominent place on one side of the nave, his coffin borne by statues of kings.  Beautiful and inspiring,  a perfect place to contemplate life, history, art.  This cathedral is truly one of the greatest religious structures I have visited.  It reflects both the past riches of Spain and the religious fervor of its people.  My mind continues to process the experience- angles, arches, color, gold, space, incense, bells, organ music, robes, statues, echos, silence.  

Outside, I pass a row of horse drawn carriages waiting for customers, cross a small plaza and arrive at the entrance to the Alcazar, once home to moorish califs and today the official residence of the king and queen of Spain in Sevilla.  There is an occasional advantage to being over 65, free entrance this time to the main palace, 4 euros for the audio guide and entrance with a small group to the private rooms.  Here I view a continuation of the moorish art I saw in Morocco, this time with an Andalousian flair, horseshoe shaped arches, elaborately carved plaster walls, intricate woodworking, arabic inscriptions, colorful tiles, more beautiful than the Alhambra, more extensive than the mosques and private residences of Morocco, this residence to untold califs, kings and queens, is a marvel beyond description.  One leaves with the sensation of visual and mental overload.  Fortunately, the next experience entails a walk through the extensive royal garden complex.  Water elements, an important part of moorish architecture and culture, abound, reflecting ponds, tiered fountains with dolphins spouting water, low circular and star shaped fountains from which small amounts of water bubble, often flowing quietly into an ajoining fountain at a lower level.  Stately palms, fruit laden orange and lemon trees, a true arboretum with winding pathways, a labyrinth of royal proportions formed by well trimmed hedges, a rose garden with the last blossoms of summer, pergolas, benches, a gentle breeze, cloudless blue sky, autumn warmth, soft sunlight.  I watch a class of students from the Escuela des Belles Artes, easels set before scenes they are capturing on canvas.   Having taken time to reflect and record my impressions, I will now leave my bench in this idyllic garden, return the autoguide, find a sidewalk cafe where I can order a late afternoon lunch and continue to enjoy Sevilla.