Madrid to Mali

Sorry that my blog has not been able to keep pace with my adventures!  There is no way I can tell about all I did in Spain; however, I will say that Grenada, Barcelona, Madrid, Toledo, Segovia and the village where I stayed with Bouba and Maria, Cerceda, all added to my knowledge and appreciation of Spanish history- and yes, Catalonia!   Good food, great art, interesting people.  That said, they could smoke less and learn to clean up after their dogs!

Fast forward to Mali-

24 hours - different worlds - I know, I understand, I have been here before, but can one ever be prepared for the contrasts?   Arrival in Bamako after a short, night flight from Madrid via Casablanca.  6 am arrival, streetlights seen through the plane window outline the limits of the city, a bumpy landing, strong braking on a short runway, passport control,  check for yellow fever vaccination ( if you don't have proof, they vaccinate you on the spot), luggage inspection.   My friend, Adama, was waiting at the exit and ran to greet me with the most sincere hug I have ever had.  Tears swelling in his eyes, and in mine,  head pressed tightly against me as he repeated, "Papa, tu es la!  Papa, tu es la!"  5 minutes, 10 minutes?   His dream come true.  Landing in sub-saharan Africa is unlike landing anywhere else I have been.  You are immediately struck by the reality of life in a developing country and it is an emotional experience.  Once again, the kindness of strangers.   Adama had long anticipated my arrival because I had taken an interest in him and his dream of a medical career.  The hug and the greeting was heartrending- an amazing reward for a small gesture whose importance I had perhaps underestimated.   We reflected on our original encounter- three years ago, a long, hot, mostly silent bus ride, seated next to a young medical student taking advantage of his time in the bus to review for his exams, frayed books with loose pages and photocopied texts.  A brief conversation and exchange of email addresses as we arrived at he crossroads where I got out; not even a photo.Three years later, I discover that he did not have enough money for the bus ticket and needed some of what he had for food.   The driver had allowed him to ride for the money he had left, and there happened to be an empty seat next to him when I entered.   This morning, quality time together, breakfast of nescafe and bread, a walk through dirt streets to the river, a detour to visit the neighborhood market that is beyond description, getting lost in unmarked streets on the way back to the hotel.  Voila!   My adventure in Mali begins.  

More to come as we attend ceremonies marking 50 years of independence for Mali tomorrow morning.

Barcelona

Found a pension, which you will find out more about later, and headed straight for Barcelona's most famous landmark, the Sagrada Familia designed by Antoni Gaudi.  Massive religious buildings are othing new or unusual - the Haggia Sophia and Blue Mosque of Istanbul are both very old and immense, the romanesque and gothic cathedrals of medieval Europe stand as a tribute to religious fervor and skilled construction techniques, the ornate baroque churches and cathedrals evoque yet another architectural style and time of religious zeal.   Fast forward to Barcelona where I gaze at unusual modern spires surrounded by six towering cranes, walk through an interior construction site resembling an ancient forest and climb narrow spiral stairways leading to the bell towers topped by colorful ceramic and glass sculptures, all of the time, sharing the space with some 300 workers attempting to complete this project in another 20 years.  I am actually witnessing the construction of a cathedral size church!  In the past, there must have been religous pilgrims, foreign travelers and curious local citizens who walked through gothic construction sites or watched stone masons and sculptors accomplish their work.  It is one thing to peer through an opening in the temporary barrier around the construction site of a skyscraper, but quite another to stroll through a vast project begun over 100 years ago.  Amazing, impressive and moving!  Only photos and some knowledge of Gaudi's style can adequately convey the captivating beauty of the Sagrada Familia.  Sorry, but the photos will have to come later.

As I write this entry sitting in a cafe facing the Casa Batllo, I am looking at the facade of this elaborate house designed by Gaudi.  Straight lines have been replaced with gentle curves, flowing walls, wavy rooflines and stairways that seem to melt as they connect the levels of the house.  Ceramic tiles and colored glass add visual interest and beauty to the style. 

There is a great Picasso museum in Barcelona that houses much of his early work.   It is especially interesting because it pre-dates the abstract style that we most often associate with him. 

Last night I attended a concert by Manuel Ferandez, a well-known and very talented guitarist, held in the Palau de la Music- concert hall.  The building is as amazing as the musician- grand staircases, Tiffany style glass panels in the ceiling, sculptures of animals, people and trees surrounding the stage, huge ceramic roses lining the support beams- all very beautiful.

Returned to my pension and discovered a new "solution" to the game of Clue.   The plumber did it with a screwdriver in the bedroom!   The sink in my room was plugged so one of the employees attempted unsuccessfully to clean the trap and drain.    When I got back to my room following the concert, the door to the neighboring room was open, light on, a screwdriver laying on the floor in a pool of blood that was leaking into the hall.  A crime scene? No one in sight!   When I went to the front desk, the employee appeared with a large bandage around his thumb!  He had cut his thumb on a broken ceramic tile while attempting to fix the problem.   Still not able to use the sink!